An onglet steak – also known as hanger steak – is usually about 3cm thick and shaped like a small, fat snake. It is slightly chewy and has a good gamey flavour. London-based chef Neil Rankin taught me how to cook steak and it works every time.
- 500g small raw beetroots
- regular olive oil
- sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper
- 125ml double cream
- 1 tablespoon wholegrain mustard, or to taste
- 3 tablespoons freshly grated horseradish
- splash of white wine vinegar (optional)
- pinch of caster sugar (optional)
- 4 x 250g onglet steaks (keep them in the fridge)
- flavourless oil or beef dripping, to fry
- Preheat the oven to 210°C/fan 190ºC/gas mark 6½. Trim the beetroots and wrap in foil, moistening with a little regular olive oil and seasoning before you seal the packet. Don’t wrap it too tightly, you want there to be space around the beets.
- Place in a roasting tin and cook until tender; it should take 30–35 minutes, though the time can vary.
- Test with the point of a knife, it should pass through with no resistance.
- When the beetroots are cool enough to handle, peel, quarter and season. These can be served at room temperature.
- Reduce the oven temperature to 140°C/fan 120ºC/gas mark 1. Put in an empty roasting tin or baking sheet large enough to hold all the steaks.
- Whip the cream and add the mustard and horseradish. Taste; you may want a little more mustard. Some people add a tiny splash of white wine vinegar (or, conversely, a pinch of sugar). Add whichever of those you think you would like.
- Onglet steaks don’t have flat surfaces, so flatten each steak a bit by bashing it with the base of a saucepan, putting baking parchment over it first. Don’t overdo it, you just need to make them a bit less round.
- Heat 2 frying pans, preferably cast iron, 7–10 minutes ahead of when you want to cook them, setting the heat dial about three-quarters of the way round. To check whether the pan is hot enough to cook in, add a tiny bit of flavourless oil or dripping. If it smokes, the pan is ready.
- Heat a little oil or beef dripping in the pan, add 2 steaks to each pan and press down with tongs to get the surfaces in touch with the base of the pan.Move the steaks around all the time, seasoning and making sure each steak is getting browned all over. Listen for the sizzle: when the steak is quiet, you need to move it. If the pan gets too hot and the meat is getting too dark (you don’t want it to be black), reduce the heat; if it’s not getting dark enough, increase the heat.
- Transfer the steaks to the hot tin or sheet in the oven and continue to cook for about 5 minutes for medium-rare (onglet is best served medium-rare).
- Using a really sharp knife, slice each steak against the grain. Neil Rankin (see recipe introduction) doesn’t rest his steak. Serve with the roast beets and the horseradish cream. A handful of green leaves is good on the side.
A stylish seasonal menu with a Continental twist, by acclaimed cookery writer Diana Henry
DIANA HENRY HAS TWICE BEEN NAMED COOKERY WRITER OF THE YEAR BY THE GUILD OF FOOD WRITERS